We are in Kihnu, a timeless island off the gulf of Riga, in Estonia. Become Unesco World Heritage in 2008, this fairy-tale island of 16 km2 is one of the best examples of the "estonicity", this national identity to which Estonia jealously grips on, 25 years after the restoring of its independence. With a specificity: here, the women are the guards of the traditions, left only chief of the island during the long months of absence of the men set sail. Nevertheless, the island has to reinvent herself not to congeal in its memory, while the young people are leaving more and more numerous.